YOU KNOW THE standard definition of vodka: colorless, odorless, tasteless. But a few producers are rethinking what this spirit can be—and we're not talking about fruit-flavored bottles, either.
Up to now, priority has been placed on neutrality. "In whiskey, we preserve character," said Tad Dorda, CEO of the Poland-based Chopin brand. "In vodka, we lose it." To show how expressive vodka can be, Mr. Dorda created his Single series. Each of the four single-ingredient vodkas—potato, "young potato" (made with early-harvested potatoes), rye, wheat—is filtered just once. The results are startling: The potato vodkas are redolent of dark chocolate; the wheat is downright earthy. The standard Chopin vodkas—filtered four times—merely whisper where the Singles shout.
Swedish producer Karlsson's has released two limited-edition vodkas in its Batch series, each labeled with a vintage to showcase the character of a single potato harvest. Also filtered once, these are distinctly sweet, with a hearty mouthfeel. Collectors may want to procure a bottle just to see how extreme a vodka can be, while the easier-to-obtain Karlsson's Gold retains some of the same richness and singularity, taken down just a notch.
AO Vodka, new to the U.S., is a Japanese rice vodka with a fleeting, rounded sweetness. Napa Vodka, made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes, is reminiscent of an eau-de-vie, right down to the fruity scent. From New York's Hudson Valley, COMB Vodka is a honey-based spirit with lush apple tones. Distilled father north, from milk sugar, Vermont White is a rich, sweet vodka made for a White Russian.
"There's been great evolution in beer and single-malt whiskeys," said Christian Gylche, president of Karlsson's. "The range of ingredients used, the geographic locations where they are made—now they are talked about." So it's going with vodka. On the horizon: barrel aging. Oak-aged Absolut Amber is already sold at duty-free stores; Karlsson's has one in the works. Since wood adds flavor, color and aroma, can we call these vodkas? These industry innovators are willing to test the limits.
1. Napa Vodka Vintage Reserve, 40% ABV, $70 | Made from single-estate Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc grapes, it's reminiscent of a fruity eau-de-vie, but with a crisp finish. Serve chilled, with aged cheeses.
2. Hophead Hop Vodka, 45% ABV, $30 | A beer-lover's vodka, distilled with hops. Super-fragrant, with grapefruit, grassy and floral flavors. As close to gin as vodka can get without going over the line.
3. AO Vodka, 40% ABV, $50 | This clean, lightly sweet vodka from Japan's Suntory is distilled from rice. The exquisitely silky texture makes it a standout. Serve in a martini glass with a splash of dry vermouth and a ribbon of fresh cucumber.
4. Chopin Single Young Potato Vodka, 40% ABV, $50 | If you're going to try just one of Chopin's four Single selections, make it this one. The mild aroma hints at dark chocolate; on the palate it's buttery, with ginger and black pepper notes.
5. Karlsson's Gold Vodka, 40% ABV, $33 | Made from Swedish potatoes, distilled only once and rebelliously unfiltered, this is an earthy, downright savory vodka. The flavor evokes truffles sprinkled with black pepper. A top pick for Bloody Marys.
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